When considering having a couture evening gown or refined dress made the proper measurements are so incredibly vital . Doing it properly could save you from ultimately needing to get your costly dress tailored by your qualified seamstress or incurring even more fees . Giving your garment designer the correct measurements will simply insure the best fit conceivable.
Most ladies (brides especially) normally want to trim down a bit prior to their black tie social occasion or wedding. This is normal for our type of clients. But it can make measuring not so easy to do . We always like to take precise counts (just in case the coveted weight is not lost at the end of production). But if your clients insist on providing you with the smaller dimensions then there is not much more you can do on the matter.
BUST – Most of us are used to the standard measurements of bust, waist and hip. But to make sure your item fits as best as possible there are others to consider as well. Let’s start with how to take a proper bust measurement. First you need to be calculated in the undergarments (or similar) that you plan to wear with this item. Then for the bust measurement take your tape measure and wrap it around the fullest part of the bosom (which is usually at the nipple) then wrap the measuring tape around to the back center at the fullest part. At our design firm we always ask the client to take a deep breath when taking this sizing so we can have the entire span and to help make it to where the item will be wearable and not confining as you move, breath and socialize in your formal evening wear or wedding gown.
WAIST – When focusing on the waist you can in truth do two measurements. There is the natural waist line. Or you can go from the high waist line. When producing an empire waist gown that measurement is usually taken from just under the bust near the widest part of the rib cage.
HIP – The hip measurement is also one that could have multiple counts. There is the widest part of the hip, the high hip and the low hip. Taking each of these would be more important in a mermaid fitted garment more so than an a-line dress – which is used mostly for bridal gowns & pageant dresses . For those who have wide or large hips it is smart thing to take all three just to be certain.
LENGTH – You could start this one from more than one place . But what we have found as fashion architects is that to start from the top of the shoulder, to over the center bust and then straight down to the proposed hem is best . Some fashion designers tend to go from edge of shoulder straight down but we have found that does not provide an as accurate length.
HOLLOW OF NECK TO BUST LINE – This measurement is just as important as the others especially when you are concerned about revealing too much skin with an open neck line or a strapless bridal gown. The hollow of the neck is that portion of your neck (at the base) where it indents slightly. We then measure straight down to the lowest part of where you want the bust line to hit. Most people are comfortable with this measurement being around 5 to 8 inches depending on your bust size.
TOP OF SHOUDLER TO NIPPPLE – This one is not widely used but can be important when working with beaded dresses and the design needs to be placed in a certain place or area. You could find that if this measurement is not taken for beaded gowns that you may have a bit of art work or embellishment that is in an unsightly place.
FRONT WAIST – This one is simple and takes into account your upper bodice . We start this one from the top of the shoulder as well, to over the bust and then down to where you want your waist to be – usually the natural waist.
BACK WAIST – For those who lets just say have a alert bum this is am important length to know as it will insure the design will curve in accordingly just above your bum. This is taken from the back base of the neck directly downward to just above where your bum begins.
WIDTH OF BACK – This one could be complicated . This is also one where we ask the client to take a deep breath. We like to take this measurement from just under the arm pit and from side seam to side seem. Others tend not to go all the way over to the seam.
ARM LEGNTH – from experience we have learned many people who submit their measurements to us sometimes do not take this one properly. We like to start from the outside edge of shoulder with the arm being straight down and then go all the way to the bump of a persons wrist – just before the hand/thumb joint begins. Another way to make sure this one is correct is to ask the consumer to bend their arm slightly to a 45 degree angle then take the measurement of the arm bent from the edge of shoulder all the way to the wrist again. This will give your figure makers a good feel for exactly how long the arm panel should be cut.
BICEPT – Most mature women tend to tell us they want to cover their arms. Knowing this measurement makes a huge difference. For instance you could have two totally different buyers try on a size 16 mother of the groom gown that is off the rack. It could fit one female in the arms and another may not. So when making items like these that are expensive it is best to know areas like this one as some women who are a standard off the rack size may have smaller or quite larger arms. Take this from the fullest part of the upper arm to insure they can slip their arm though with ease.
WRIST – A unique measurement that most would not think to take but it comes into play with long sleeve dresses. Having it also makes sure you do not have a coat type end of sleeve. That may be the desired effect but most times a fitted wrist is the norm.
FIST – Another important but sometimes overlooked portion is the fist. We have seen it all and sometimes people have larger hands than others and you want to make certain that the individual can get their entire hand through the wrist opening. We commonly use a hook and eye or small zipper enclosure to make sure the wrist is fitted after the fist has entered.
SHOULDER – Bizarre as it may seem but most people are not even from side to side. This shoulder account we like to use again for long sleeved dresses and is taken from the base side of neck all the way over to the outside edge of the shoulder. You would be surprised how many people (especially those with wide shoulders) truly appreciate that we ask for this one.
ELBOW – You can take this one with the arm straight or with the elbow bent for more truth.
ARM HOLE – This is basically from under your arm pit and around to the top part of your shoulder. It insures a proper fit under the arm so there is not a lot of spare fabric.
TRAIN – This one is a total preference. We like to fit this from the back of the heel to the train hem. You will find some bridal shops take this from the back waist to the hem. That is not always the best place to start .
By taking all of these very important measurements you can insure that your mother of the bride dress, bridal gown or formal ball gown will fit its best. This will surely help you head off costly alterations and multiple fittings.
Just recollect when there is a doubtit is best for your article of clothing to be too long or a little loose rather than too tight or a bit too short. You can take away but you can not add fabric. So in all cases it is better to round up than down.
To inquire about designer dresses from Darius Cordell Designs please go to our “Catalog of Wedding & Evening Dresses“.
When you visit the designer site you will also see a link for our Customer Service Reviews that were posted by real people who actually purchased from our design firm.